flavors-with-history:-restaurants-that-pay-tribute-to-mexican-heritage-this-cinco-de-mayoFlavors with history: restaurants that pay tribute to Mexican heritage this Cinco de Mayo

Nayomie Mendoza has already gotten used to how the festival is celebrated. Cinco de Mayo in the United States: the trays of tacos, the pitchers of margaritas and the happy sounds of mariachi bands.

She is among several Mexican American businessmen who have spoken out more strongly about the importance of honoring Mexican history and the meaning of the holiday, as a way to combat anti-immigrant sentiments amid growing anti-immigration efforts that have been directed against Latino communities.

Mendoza, owner of Cuernavaca’s Grill in Los Angelessaid that he prefers a celebration that reflects “everything that as a community we are experiencing today.” That’s why Mendoza will host Cinco de Mayo festivities at his restaurant, which, in addition to traditional mariachi music and Mexican cuisine, will include a tribute to Mexican perseverance over the French in the Battle of Puebla more than 160 years ago.

Mexican restaurant chef and owner Marco Mendoza prepares hot molcajete, a traditional Mexican dish, at the Cuernavaca Grill restaurant in downtown Los Angeles.
Credit: AP | Courtesy

“Just seeing everything they accomplished with so few resources,” he said. “That showed their resilience. That’s why, in the Cinco de Mayo “We always celebrate it as a testament to our own resilience.”

Restaurant owners are not the first leaders of the Latino community to reclaim Cinco de Mayo in the United States, moving away from the simplification of Mexican culture to highlight history and community. This year, celebrations are notably embracing traditional Mexican culture and focusing on its preservation, said Sehila Mota Casper, director of Latinos in Heritage Conservation.

“These are incredible moments of education and knowledge sharing,” said Mota Casper. “The more we educate, the more knowledge we share, the better community and better people we will be.”

Restaurants place more importance on authenticity than on tequila shots.

According to the Census Bureau’s annual business survey, Hispanic-owned businesses accounted for 8.4% of the 5.9 million US employers in 2024. And they made up about 18% of all restaurants in the United States last month, according to the National Restaurant Association, which uses census data.

According to Raúl Luis, owner of the Mexican restaurant Birrieria Chalio, with locations in Los Angeles and Fortress Worth, Texas, Americans hoping to fill restaurants and down tequila shots could find healthier, carefully planned options for Cinco de Mayo. On this date, he wants his clients to eat and drink stews, like those served at a Mexican family’s home.

Luis said the traditional, well-crafted cuisine will keep customers coming back, even if they are not Hispanic.

“It is the perfect opportunity for restaurants to take advantage of that moment, attract customers and invite them to try authentic Mexican food,” Luis said.

What does Cinco de Mayo celebrate?

Bartender Usiel Macia serves lemonade at the Cuernavaca Grill restaurant in downtown Los Angeles.
Credit: AP | Courtesy

Cinco de Mayo commemorates the anniversary of the victory of Mexican troops over invading French forces at the Battle of Puebla in 1862.. The triumph over the French troops, much more numerous and better equipped, was an enormous emotional boost for the Mexican soldiers led by the same outdated Ignacio Zaragoza.

In Mexico, historical reenactments are held annually in the central city of Puebla to commemorate the victory. Participants dress as Mexican and French soldiers, as well as zacapoaxtlas, the indigenous and peasant contingent that helped the Mexican troops win.

In the United States, May 5 celebrates Mexican-American culture, whose tradition dates back to the 19th century in California. Festivities typically include parades, street food, neighborhood parties, mariachi competitions, and dancing.

Folklore, or ballet folklorico, is characterized by twirling dancers in bright, ruffled dresses, their hair tied back with glittering ribbons.

This day is often confused with Mexican Independence Day, which is celebrated on September 16.

Latino activists and academics say that disconnect in the United States is reinforced by the unclear history of Cinco de Mayo and by marketing that plays on stereotypes that include fake, droopy mustaches and giant, colorful hats.

A testimony of Mexican resilience

Since his return to the White House in 2025, President Donald Trump has continued to label Mexican immigrants as criminals and gang members, and Latino communities have been targeted by his hardline immigration tactics.

Memes shared from official White House social media accounts perpetuate negative stereotypes about Latinos, while a federal initiative imposing English as the only official language and banning diversity, equity and inclusion programs appear to target communities of color.

Altogether, this has generated a lot of fear in Latino communities.

Mendoza, the Los Angeles restaurant owner, said it has also been a difficult time for the restaurant industry due to rising costs. But despite everything, Cuernavaca’s Grill will celebrate its 20th anniversary this year.

As part of the restaurant’s Cinco de Mayo festivities, it will invite customers to contribute to a food and toy drive aimed at supporting those who are struggling in the real situation.

“This shows our resilience,” Mendoza said. “It is an example of our hard work. It is a source of pride for our community and for everything we have achieved.”

With AP information

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